
You’ve seen it before: a car with bubbled, purple-hued windows that make it look neglected. That unsightly finish is often the result of a bad window tinting job, and it’s a clear sign of either low-quality film or, more often, poor installation. When a tint starts to fail, it’s not just a cosmetic issue; it’s a breakdown of the very protection you paid for. Understanding why this happens is key to avoiding it in the first place.
Here’s an in-depth look at the most common reasons why tints bubble and peel, revealing the truth behind a bad installation.
Bubbles are the number one sign of a flawed installation, and they come in two main forms: air bubbles and moisture bubbles.
Air Bubbles: These happen when the installer doesn’t properly squeegee the film during application, leaving tiny pockets of air trapped beneath the surface. Over time, as the film cures and the air expands and contracts with temperature changes, these pockets become more visible as unsightly bubbles.
Moisture Bubbles: These are often mistaken for air bubbles, but they are actually small pockets of the water-based slip solution used during installation. While a few small moisture bubbles are normal in the first few days and will evaporate during the curing process, large bubbles or bubbles that don’t disappear after a week or two are a sign that too much moisture was left behind. This can lead to the film not bonding correctly to the glass.
The root cause of both types of bubbles is almost always improper technique. A skilled installer knows how to meticulously work a squeegee across the entire surface of the film, ensuring a perfect, flat bond with the glass.
Peeling and lifting edges are another classic giveaway of a cheap or rushed window tinting job. The edges are the most vulnerable part of the film, and they are constantly subjected to friction and wear, especially on roll-down windows.
The reasons for peeling are typically:
Rushed Preparation: The glass surface, especially around the edges, must be perfectly clean. If the installer fails to remove all dirt, grime, or residue, the film won’t be able to form a strong bond.
Poor Cutting: An installation that relies on hand-cutting the film on the window can often result in uneven or jagged edges. A professional uses a computer-cut template that provides a flawless, factory-like edge that fits perfectly.
Improper Heat Sealing: Heat is used to shrink and cure the film, especially around the edges. If an installer doesn’t properly heat-seal the edges, the film will lack the necessary bond strength and will begin to lift with repeated use.
A professional installer takes the time to prepare the glass, uses a precise cutting system, and meticulously seals every edge, ensuring the film becomes a seamless part of the window.
While a bad installation is often to blame, a cheap, low-quality film can also contribute to these issues. Inferior films often use a less robust adhesive and are made from materials that break down quickly under the sun’s UV rays. This is what leads to the classic purple tint, as the film’s dyes and protective layers fail, and the adhesive loses its grip on the glass.
In the end, the difference between a high-quality window tinting job and a bad one comes down to a simple formula: premium film plus a professional installer. Cutting corners on either one is a recipe for a bubbly, peeling mess that will cost you more in the long run.